Four Green Fields....

Last night was one of my best in Belfast. I met up with a friend Krisie, another American in Belfast. We had never met before last night, but had emailed a bit. We were connected by Anne's boyfriend's roomate's girlfriend. Sounds like a bad gossip story I know, but her family is from Nireland and she is here for a year or two avoiding the real world after graduating (sound familiar?) She invited me to go with her to see her friends play some traditional Irish music as she does every Tuesday. We met in city center at 10 and took a black taxi out to West Belfast. We ended up at a tiny pub (I would say hole in the wall but here a hole in the wall is an ATM) that used to be a house. The smoke poured out the door as we went in.

Her friends were not as I expected, ranging in age from probably 25 to 60. They were in a small circle in the back end of the pub. There were a plethora of guitars, a few banjos, and a selection of tin whistles and flutes. There was also a bodhran, an Irish drum that is awesome. Krisie introduced me to a few people and we sat getting to know each other with great music to entertain us. We laughed a lot and it was great to be out with someone new, don't get me wrong Alison and Lauren, I love you guys too. Everyone was so friendly and chatty, it was great.

The area we were in was a very Catholic, Nationalist neighborhood. West Belfast is where many of the big interfaces are and where out car tour mainly took us. The Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods are very separated and very clearly marked. During just a few short hours in this bar, I noticed how clear it was that I was in a Nationalist community. From the songs to the conversation, it was evident. One of the most interesting conversation I have had since being in Belfast was last night with one of Krisie's friends who is Swiss. She was commenting to me how unfriendly and pushy the Protestants she has met have been, trying to convince her that she should side with them and that their view of the conflict is the correct perspective. While she has clearly chosen to surround herself with a Nationalist crew, I was not too surprised to hear her unspoken side with them. While I have not had a similar experience with the Protestant community at all, as an outsider, I feel like there is no taking sides. I have no real understanding with either side, though I can empathize with both over the struggle and violence of the past 3 decades. Maybe its the nature of my work here, maybe its a calling for reconciliation not further separation, but I could no more side with the Catholics or the Protestants.

One song they sang that everyone in the pub knew and sang along to was a song about the troubles and the Nationalist opinion of what has taken place. The song was beautiful and while I shouldn't publicly support downloading, I recommend it. (shhh, don't tell!) It is called Four Green Fields, and most any Irish singer has a rendition. Here are the lyrics:

"What did I have?" said the fine old woman
"What did I have?" this proud old woman did say
"I had four green fields, each one was a jewel
But strangers came and tried to take them from me
I had fine strong sons, they fought to save my jewels
They fought and died, and that was my grief" said she

"Long time ago" said the fine old woman
"Long time ago" this proud old woman did say
"There was war and death, plundering and pillage
My children starved by mountain valley and sea
And their wailing cries, they shook the very heavens
My four green fields ran red with their blood" said she

"What have I now?" said the fine old woman
"What have I now?" this proud old woman did say
"I have four green fields, one of them's in bondage
In stranger's hands, that tried to take it from me
But my sons have sons, as brave as were their fathers
My fourth green field will bloom once again" said she


The four fields refers to the four provinces of Ireland: Leinster, Munster, Connacht, and Ulster. Ulster probably sounds familiar to you, maybe from the Rugby team or the murals posted on webshots. The province of Ulster contains 9 counties, 6 of which make up Northern Ireland (consider this part of the history lesson I promised!) 'Ulster' is used to talk about Northern Ireland, even though 3 of its counties are within the Republic. The song talks about the British colonization of Ireland, the strangers who tried to take it. When it says one of them's in bondage if refers to Ulster which today as Northern Ireland remains under British control. The song ends with the hope and dream of one day Ulster joining Ireland. As I listened to this song last night and looked around the pub, I could tell the Nationalist population of the pub all strongly identify with this song. It was a great experience.

Now, I feel like I am in Ireland.