Really, it takes a few days to have a full post, so bear with me while I catch you up on my thoughts/experiences of the past week. I recently attended a retirement party for the only man on staff at Newington Day Centre where I volunteer on Tuesdays. The party was a blast, and I really realized how brilliant the women there are (not that I didn't already know...) For his going away book, they took pictures of all the staff and volunteers cleavage, and he was to guess who was who. I almost died laughing. They are a rowdy bunch and I will surely miss them when I go. One day this week Alison and I went to help out at the end of the street at the summer scheme. We played football with the kids and I taught a few how to do cartwheels. My body is still punishing me for those! It was a good time to be outta the house and see some of the kids I had met a time or two before when I had gone with Lauren to afterschools.
Now, to the more recently, and more eventful events: My birthday, combined with the 11th night, and then the holiday today. Now, I will start with what you should, hopefully, know already: yesterday I turned the big 2-3. And I am stoked to be reminded of Michael Jordan and that he played for Carolina. I still might forget to say I'm 23 when asked. I bought my fav sausage rolls for breakfast for a birthday treat and came down to find a cake and card waiting from Alison. She is too good to me. I had a relaxed morning, my friend Michelle stopped by, and then I went to have lunch with Rachel and Pamela McCormick. Love them and it was great to see them on my birthday and before they are away on holiday for two weeks! Came home and went absolutely mad trying to find Alison: her keys were there so I knew she had to be in the house, I even looked under beds. About to panic, she walked in the door. The goober had taken her house key off her Keychain. Shortly after, we headed out to dinner at Teresa's house with Joan.
We kicked off the night with champagne, they are so funny! We had a great dinner, I learned a magic trick that will get me lots of free drinks in the future, and Teresa had made her famous lemon cheesecake (more like custard) for dessert. Plus, Joan brought a traditional Irish birthday cake, which now I can't remember the name of. Simple, but so good. Leif, Joan's 11 year old son put the candles in for me!
Then Joan's brother came to take us around to see the bonfires pre lighting.
Bonfires? you may ask. YES, just for my birthday. haha. Okay, so not really- but wouldn't that be cool? So. The 11th of July also happens to be the 11th Night, or the start to the huge holiday in the Protestant culture. I am not perfect on the history, but my UK produced planner says "The Battle of the Boyne (N. Ireland)" on the 12th of July. Based on my understanding, William of Orange defeated Catholic King James. (look it up on wikipedia if you want more details) The Protestant community celebrated because originally they were celebrating the survival and triumph of their community in the face of the Irish Rebellion (stolen from wikipedia- not the best source, so take as you will) and today they celebrate it as part of their history. **Doug I am sure could give me a better idea and might be laughing as he reads this! So my apology on my ignorance** My best guess as to why they celebrate today is it was a defeat of the Catholics and something they can hold on to, which is pretty sad- but I am getting ahead of myself. Also, I think it is just something they have always done... and so it continues. To stop this tradition would be giving up too much in the compromise of peace.
So, on the 11th they have bonfires in most of the Protestant areas. John, Joan's brother took us around to see them before they were lit. We drove all over the city and out to Antrim to see one that was renowned for being huge. It was amazing to see, I seriously had no idea. And even each street in areas had smaller ones for their own group. We are talking like 2 and 3 story tall, clearly planned out and stacked piles of pylons and tires. The tires are awful, and give off a nasty black smoke. The tops of the structures ranged from the Irish tricolour, to the union jack British Flag, and we even saw an European Union flag. It was interesting that they differed, but the tricolour was the most popular by far. Other things included in the structures were couches, mattresses, refrigerators, Sinn Fein political party signs, on one in particular a sign denouncing a neighboring Protestant area that had been known for its huge 11th night celebration that had decided to not have a bonfire this year. So you can get an idea, here are some of the pictures... look at the people for a reference of how massive they are...
Now. This wouldn't be my blog nor my personality if I didn't give you my opinion on these bonfires. Please note I have already admitted my true ignorance to the history behind this holiday, so the following thoughts are based on what I have heard and now experienced. So, I will try to be sensitive, politically correct, and all that, but I also want you to know my true opinion if you are taking the time to read this. However, I know there are people that I don't know well, or maybe even at all, that read this, so if I must say my intention is not to offend or belittle or anything negative at all. So, with that said: here goes.
While I didn't partake in any of the lit fires, I am still amazed by the size of them and would have liked to see one lit. To stand by a fire of that size is unimaginable to me, and a bit freighting. But, at the same time, I think the bonfires are pretty insane, and a basic symbol of the hatred that still burns in this city and thus the reason I didn't want to stand at one. I seriously doubt that all the thousands of people who stood at these fires really were there to promote the messages given by the burning of the tricolour and the flags reading kill all catholics (KAT). Maybe it is just my hope, but I think it is more of a party, a chance to see friends, and only the select few really are there to support the message that is given from its appearance. However, I felt to stand there, I would be supporting it all. I think the 11th and 12th are both super intimidating for the Catholic community and I do feel for them. I don't know a solution, but I think there is a way forward without losing out on either side or having to give up too much. My suggestion: cut out the bonfires- they are wrecking the environment, remove the tricolours and all that, and have a big block party. Get drunk as they do, see friends, dance, and be merry. But cut the sectarianism out of it. BIG dream, Lib. It is all really conflicting, and I am really not too sure how I feel about it all....
Alison and I enjoyed the fireworks from our 3rd floor window before going to bed. I love fireworks, and having missed them the week before on the 4th, having them on my birthday was brilliant, their origin irrelevant that is.
The following morning on the 12th, Alison and I headed to town to see the Orangemen March. Now this is a huge parade of bands from all over, including Scotland and the Orangemen who are members of a political society named after, who else, William of Orange. As Alison and I stepped out of the house, the air was overwhelming with the smell of bonfire and an even worse smell of burning rubber. Imagine the smell when you slam on the brakes, times 1,000. We got in to town to see hoards of people leaving, wrapped in flags and with anything you can image with the union jack on it and red, white, and blue. Unlike the 4th of July, the colours were only in accessories, while Northern Ireland football tops, Rangers football gear, and a full on fashion show for the females were the typical outfits. All the shops were closed. Weird to see in the middle of the day. We had missed the march through town, but decided to wander and just take in the spectacle of people. I have never seen so much drinking on the street, nor as much rubbish. Yes, it is illegal to drink on the street, but my guess is with so many people doing it, there is only so much enforcement of the law that can take place. There were stalls set up with all kinds of British paraphernalia and food.
We wandered for a bit, then headed home, deciding we would catch the parade on their way back through town later in the afternoon. We headed back in to town and watched the parade as they came through. The bands were really good, and I felt a little better about supporting bands than just a bonfire. There were no burning tricolours or anything anti-catholic during the parade. As we walked home, the parade just happened to follow our exact route up to Carlisle Circus. As we walked up towards the roundabout, we passed about 3 side streets leading into Catholic neighborhoods. Each road was blocked with two rows of police trucks, and covered with armed police who looked unlike any police I have ever seen in their protective gear all the way up to helmets with full faskmasks. At one of the police lines, there was a group of people, shouting and waving the tricolour in protest. While this was relatively peaceful, it is the first time I have seen the two sides face off, for lack of a better word. We got to the roundabout, the parade continued straight up the Crumlin Road, and we turned right onto the Antrim Road into the Catholic area we call home.
**The last two pictures above of the Orangemen are from a parade I saw last fall- I felt too awkward to take them at the 12th parade. But the first two are from the 12th.
One of the saddest things to me was a pair of girls, inching their way towards the roundabout along the Antrim Road. One turned back, while the other gave off to her about being scared. I felt horrible for the girl who was being pressured to go see the parades, as I wouldn't want to go if I were her either. Overall, it was a really interesting experience to be here for the 12th and I am still trying to work through exactly what I think about it all. As I wrote this, I really struggled with how to share and express what all I was thinking during this. I apologize if this leaves you going 'huh?' but I hope you have some sense of the past few days here in Belfast.
